So at the moment, Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty Exhibition is in London and recently I watched
'McQueen and I' (which I recommend watching...after you finish this post) a documentary of his life and brand and so I felt this Guide post was only necessary.So I have done a few guides to brands before, and although this one
is entitled 'A Guide to Alexander Mcqueen' I don't think such thing is possible. For those who aren't acquainted with Lee's work in particular (it is Sarah Burton's designs at present, her being creative director) he isn't just another brand, he brought something different something original. When he put on a show he had such much emotion behind each one, a message to portray to his audience through his clothes. That may seem like a cliche thing to say but he wasn't just a designer. Alexander McQueen's work always brought such a diverse mix of opinions; it left people breath-taken, disgusted, amazed and few designers make their audience feel this way, in my opinion it takes talent.
Starting with a bit about his life; Lee was born March 17th, 1969 in the East end of London as one of 6 children. Fun fact much of what inspired his work was the birds that were outside his window which he enjoyed watching from a young age. Much of his family worked in tailoring and he had always enjoyed fashion, his family urged him to try it out. At 16 Lee left school and got an apprenticeship on Savile Row working for the tailors Anderson & Sheppard and after Gieves & Hawkes. By the age of 21 he had also started to work for Angels & Bermans; a theatrical costume company and designers Koji Tatsuno and Romeo Gigli.
McQueen's first collection in 1993; models came out in trousers as low as they could go and hand stitched clothing to make it look ripped.
Lee, in 1994 earned his degree from St Martins College of Fashion. His graduate collection caught the eye's of England but in particular Isabella Blow (above left) ; a British fashion editor but best known for her elaborate costume like style of dressing and for promoting new talent like McQueen's. She acquired every piece from that collection and took Lee under her wing.
In October 1994 Lee introduced arguably the most influential garment of that decade; the 'bumster' trousers.
McQueen's next collection was entitled 'The Highland Rape' Models wore ripped lace and the audience were spooked by the eery atmosphere, which he was known for, also holding catwalks in Churches at midnight for example. These first collections got him so much publicity as it was things people wouldn't necessarily wear but shocked people. After all, there is no such thing as bad publicity right?
In 1996 he became director at the traditional french couture house - Givenchy. Calling the fashion house's past work 'irrelevant' and stoking fires with the French press he begun. Starting off in a small house shared with his British team and later given a much nicer house once they realized his potential. Many at Givenchy disliked his un-traditional style and alot of his first collections for the brand where un-wearble they had the publicity but not any profits.
1997's collection was one of the main talked about, by the press and the public. Flights of steps lead to a flooded runway, models wore large jewelry like spikes and chains, cut blunt fringes which looked fake and silver eye shadow but one model stirred controversial opinions in particular (above) The model worked down in metal body jewelry which the newspapers immediately said was hinting to the idea of slavery however McQueen argued he liked the way it made the model walk. The clothing side of this collection was to some the first 'pretty' garments made by him, with delicacy and care shown more than before.
His 1999 show ended with Shalom Harlow's dress being sprayed with paint whilst spinning like a ballerina in a music box.
His fall collection of 1999 involved the models on ice skates and fake snow.
A collection used as inspiration now was one of mirrors; the models couldn't see out but the audience could see in, in the middle was a mirrored box which the content horrified many, the mirrored walls were pulled down at the end to reveal a women made to seem 'ugly' to society lay there and McQueen explained how he was trying to portray beauty. Kate Moss famously walked this collection.
The mirrored staging, which is explained above. See the middle with the mirrored box open.
In 2000 the world was shocked when he sold a large portion of his brand Alexander McQueen to Givenchy's arch rivals; Gucci. Although newspaper reports were full of alleged bickering between him and management at Givenchy he didn't depart the brand until 2001.
In 2000 the audience were shocked by the fake blood used and the bandages on the models heads, many questioned whether McQueen should work in stage costume design instead.
My favourite detailing from a 2004 collection.
In the January of 2006 Lee launched a McQ label, a more affordable denim based line. Prices ranging from £100 to £300.
In April 2007, Isabella Blow, McQueen's good friend sadly committed suicide, she helped him gain publicity and gave advice over the years.
S/S 2008's collection by McQueen entitled 'A Dedication' was dedicated to Isabella. Notice the continuous bird theme. A softer collection then previous ones, which ended with a ghost like Kate Moss floating in 2006's Fall collection in a ruffled white fabric, just as she got close she vanished without warning, much like Isabella.
Shoes from the 2009 Collection.
On February 11th McQueen hung himself in his wardrobe and passed away, just after his mother died off a long term illness. Many who knew him commented on how it was such a violent way to end a life, but devastating and abrupt also.
Sarah Burton took over as creative director and recently Savage Beauty has opened in London at the Victoria & Albert Museum, bigger than the previous savage beauty exhibition 4 years ago in New York, this event looks at honoring his life, closer to home at a more personal level. Open until the 2nd of August people are going to see his two decades of brilliance.
As this turned out longer than expected I will do a part 2 focusing on his latest 'Savage Beauty' Exhibition, which will be up soon. I hope this gave a deeper look at Lee and his excellence.
Instagram | Twitter | Blog Lovin' So at the moment, Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty Exhibition is in London and recently I watched 'McQueen and I ' (which I re...
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